Thursday, November 22, 2012

Barefoot, Naked, Dirt Road, Palm Trees


Well, here we are at Thanksgiving time again, when we must ask ourselves what we’re thankful for.  This time last year I was in Peru visiting my dear friend, Maren, in Lima and our dinner consisted of steak fajitas, margaritas, and not much contemplation of what we were grateful for.  Boy, have things changed.  While I again am out of the States for the second Thanksgiving in a row, I definitely have “plenty tings” I am thankful for.

I am thankful for the fact that I am alive and able to be living in Africa right now.  While there are things that drive me “banana-sandwich” (thank you, Morgan Weir) sometimes, I love it here.  To quote Bradley Zemmel (haha), I often have to pinch myself and ask “Am I in the Twilight Zone?”  I’ve been here over 5 months already and sometimes I still can’t believe it.  I’m having the best experience of my life.

But it’s not all just unicorns and gumdrops and rainbows.  Some days are what I call “bleh days”:  I’m tired, cranky, and feel defeated as an educator and PCV.  Then there are the days I feel like Superman after having just saved the world once again:  nothing and no one can stop me!  And most days, I feel a little bit of both ends of Dany’s Emotional Spectrum, but hey, that’s the life of a typical PCV.  (At least I’m more in tune with my mood swings now, eh?)  Sometimes you feel the really low lows and the really high highs all in the same day, but you just take it a day at a time and learn to laugh, a lot.

So I am thankful for my sense of humor.  And for my ability to laugh at any situation.  Like my students trying, and failing miserably, to pronounce the German last names of the scientists who contributed to the 3 tenants of Cell Theory.  That day I literally doubled over laughing for a good 5 minutes, with tears streaming down my face, in front of my 10th graders.  I think they appreciated it.  :-)  Or the time I was on one of my weekend long runs and sank in Liberian quicksand (deceptively solid-looking, gushy mud) at the edge of the road.  I was in deep, up past my ankles, as I was dodging a pen-pen (motorbike), all in the name of safety!  After screaming some choice words that I won’t repeat here into the backdrop of palm trees, vines, and ferns, I just burst into hysterical laughter.  Then I continued to jog for 40 more minutes with really squishy, heavy tennis shoes.  When I finally reached my house, I had a good laugh and photo session with the “pekings” (kids) and ended up having a fantastic Saturday.

I’m also thankful for my immune system.  Hearing stories of other PCVs who have had Malaria and Giardia multiple times so early into service is scary, but thankfully, knock on wood, I’ve survived with just 2 mild colds and only two tiny sunburns so far.  I’ve eaten mystery bush meat (probably groundhog) in various soups and never had runny belly!  AND, I haven’t chopped off any fingers yet!  Aren’t you happy about that one, Mommy?  :-)

I’m also so incredibly thankful I have enough food to eat each and every day.  Food is something us middle-class Americans don’t have to worry about.  “When will I eat my next meal?” is a question most of us seldom, if ever, have to ask ourselves.  One of the students in my school said most days he goes to campus with an empty stomach and envies his classmates as they buy food from one another during the Recess break.  (Side note:  Did you know that in Liberia, “recess” really means mini-market time?  I didn’t either!  Okay, tangent aside.)  How can someone be expected to perform well, let alone pay attention, when their stomach is roaring with hunger?  Yes, I’m here “living as the people do” but our PC monthly stipends more-than-provide for our dietary needs.  So we share small with our friends/the neighborhood kids/students whenever we have extras, which is fairly often.

So when you’re sitting down to your turkey dinner with your friends, families, and loved ones, be thankful for the fact that you can even choose between white meat and dark, mashed potatoes or diced and spiced, because the reality is that millions of people don’t have that luxury.

Okay, my “I’ma make you feel guilty, you glutinous Americans” rant is over, I promise.

Another thing I’m thankful for is having the opportunity to experience and learn SO MUCH from a culture that is so different from my own.  It has really helped me examine American cultural norms, values, and expectations and determine what are the things I really like and don’t like without society telling me what and how to think.  Like for instance, having little children running around naked isn’t such a taboo after all, is it?  Why do we have to perceive nudity to be such a terrible thing?  While walking back to Gbarma from the neighboring village of Zuo (which means “stupid” in Gola, by the way…more on that later), Rachel and I saw 3 young boys running towards the creek to “go take bath”.  One peking was wearing shorts that were falling off his butt and had bright yellow “slippers” (flip-flops) that pounded orangish-brown dust into the air as he ran.  The second boy only had on a shirt that wasn’t very long at all and black slippers, and the third and last boy in the group had no clothes or shoes on at all!  They three raced one another to the bridge, ran down the bank, and jumped into the water, splashing and laughing, just having a grand ‘ole time.  And that’s how it should be.  If you want to race your friends down a dirt road in the bush, butt naked, to jump into the refreshingly cool creek as the white women pass, then why the hell shouldn’t you be able to?  We just chuckled to ourselves as we began to climb the hill along the palm trees near the GCS campus, our landmark that we had returned to Gbarma.

Now, “Zuo” means “stupid” in Gola, one of the tribal languages in this western region.  The town has that name because apparently the soil is so fertile, the plants grow stupidly fast.  Seriously.  I laughed the first time I heard it too.  Anyways, the reason we were walking back from Zuo to Gbarma last Saturday was because we were leaving a funeral.  Our school’s Registrar passed away last month due to heart and kidney complications, AND African magic and poisoning, if you ask the Liberians.  After a very long day and very interesting service―complete with colorful lappa dresses, singing and dancing, fake flowers and ribbon wreaths, lots of sweating, fainting, wailing, hysterical crying/fits of uncontrollable sorrow, and a burial in an above-ground-tomb of ceramic bathroom tiles―we said goodbye to Uncle One-Eye (yes, that’s his nickname).  While I didn’t know Konah all that well and only interacted with him a limited number of times, I was still affected by his passing because it affected the entire community.  And while it SUCKED to see his family members in their suffering during the service, it was also nice to see how the entire community came together during this terrible time.

So, with that said, I am extremely grateful that I am now a part of a society in which the community actually means something.  People living in poverty scrape together what they can to contribute to the family’s funeral expenses.  Zuo probably slaughtered their entire supply of chickens for the post-funeral meal.  Villagers gave up their beds to allow strangers, friends and family from Monrovia, to sleep in their homes the night of the wake.  People here really come together and are there for one another when it’s really needed.  So I’m thankful for that.  I’m thankful people here care for you and aren’t shy, ashamed, or afraid to let you know it.  Oh, and the people here let me know just how much they love me, but I’ll save that for another blog post. :-)

And I’m thankful I have so many supportive and loving people in my life.  So here is my Thanksgiving message to you:  I’m grateful for you!  And I hope you appreciate what you have and cherish those around you, because you never know if you’ll make it to the next Thanksgiving.  So take the time to thank whatever God, spirit(s), forces, elements of nature, whatever you believe in today.  Thank Him/it/them for this day, for this life, and enjoy it to the fullest!  Happy Thanksgiving!